For many, the idea of paddling the entire length of the Murray River—a journey stretching over 2,500 kilometres—would be an overwhelming challenge. But for adventurer Laura Waters, it was a test of resilience, endurance, and self-discovery. Now, after completing this monumental journey, she shares her thoughts on the highs and lows, the lessons learned, and what’s next in her adventure-filled life.
Reflecting on the Journey:
Q. How does it feel to have completed such a monumental journey down the Murray River?
I’ve never before felt the sense of achievement that I did at the end of this journey. It was so hard won, having challenged me in myriad ways. Normally I finish an adventure and it doesn’t seem a big deal, but this one I thought, ‘You did it, girl!’
Q. Was the experience what you expected, or were there any surprises along the way?
It was actually nothing like I expected. I was envisaging a real nature escape (and for many Murray paddlers, it is) but as someone who’s spent months hiking in remote areas, it felt quite urban in comparison. Towns are frequently dotted along the river and I rarely seemed to be far from the hum of farm machinery, pumping stations, trucks on a nearby highway, or other boaties. My favourite sections were definitely where I had the river more to myself.
Challenges and Triumphs:
Q. What was the most challenging part of the paddle, and how did you overcome it?
I thought the most dangerous part of the river would be the three days of rapids at the start but it turned out to be powerboats and jet skis. Numerous times I had near misses (sometimes deliberate on their part) and that was pretty stressful. But equally dangerous was crossing Lake Alexandrina which is 37km across and feels like an inland sea. Waves can get big out there and I had to time it right to give myself the best chance of crossing safely.
Q. Were there any moments when you felt like giving up? If so, what kept you going?
A few weeks in (where the river gets busier) I heard a tinnie coming up behind me at full speed. I turned around to see two guys deliberately aiming straight for me, only turning barely a few metres away, laughing and drinking beers. In a fast flowing river with tree snags either side, it was a dangerous manoeuvre and left me feeling vulnerable and shaken. A few days later I nearly got run over by about 15 jet skis racing around a blind bend on a narrow stretch. Thankfully I was on the riverbank having a break at the time but had I been on the water they would have run me over before anyone knew what happened. I’ve never given up on something because it’s difficult but after those incidents I questioned whether I really wanted to spend 2.5 months of my hard-earned holiday doing something that I just wasn’t enjoying. But I know that every adventure has its peaks and troughs so I gave it a bit longer and things improved.
Q. What was your most rewarding or memorable moment during the journey?
The birdlife and sunrises were incredible. I’ve never been much of a morning person but the Murray made me one. The light is really special out there. I also loved coming around a bend on a few occasions and seeing emus wandering on the shore. The sheer golden cliffs in South Australia were stunning too – I had no idea they existed!
Connection to the Murray:
Q. You mentioned feeling a spiritual connection to the Murray before starting. How did that connection deepen or change during your journey?
Actually, it spoiled that feeling! lol. I spent a lot of time in the stress zone and saw how many people use (and sometimes abuse) the river. I probably got a more balanced view rather than a romantic one.
Q. Did you learn anything unexpected about the river’s ecosystem or the communities that rely on it?
It was an eye-opener to see the dozens of pumping stations dotted along the river, sucking water out for various purposes—some for environmental health but most for farming purposes.
Personal Growth:
Q. How has this journey impacted you personally?
It pushed me into new territory because I found it so consistently physically and mentally challenging, so I appreciate it for that.
Q. Did paddling the Murray shift your perspective on solo adventures or the environment in any way?
Not really, although you always learn a bit more about what you’re capable of, facing a new set of challenges that require new decision-making.
Q. How does this journey compare to your hike on New Zealand’s Te Araroa Trail in terms of personal transformation?
Chalk and cheese. The TA was the best time of my life and fundamentally changed me as a person and the course of my life since. The Murray was a real mixed bag and was more consistently stressful but without the reward of constantly stunning scenery and solitude that made way for quiet thought and epiphanies. It was exhausting packing and unpacking the boat daily (sometimes in water/mud or up and down steep banks), battling headwinds, flies, and never knowing where you’re going to be able to find a camp at night.
Future Plans:
Q. Now that you’ve completed the Murray paddle, what’s next on your adventure list?
I’m totally in recovery mode atm and just enjoying creature comforts for a while. A month after the paddle ended, my fingers are still recovering (the physio tells me it might be another six weeks before the pain fully goes).
Q. Do you have plans to write about this experience, and if so, how will it differ from your previous work?
I’d like to write another book about this adventure but I’m just letting it percolate for a while. It might be a memoir, like Bewildered, or I might make it more an informative everything you’ve ever wondered about the Murray kind of work.
Laura’s journey down the Murray was tough, unpredictable, and at times overwhelming. But through it all, she emerged stronger, wiser, and ever more determined to keep exploring the world—one adventure at a time.
For those considering a long-distance paddle or solo adventure, Laura’s advice is clear: “Do your planning, stay adaptable, and trust in your own capabilities. Every challenge you overcome makes you stronger. The sky’s the limit.”
