From the rugged landscapes of rural Ontario to the towering faces of El Capitan, Bronwyn Hodgins has carved out a remarkable path in the world of professional rock climbing. Based in Squamish, Canada, Hodgins is a multi disciplined outdoors lover, competent in both sport and trad climbing, rafting and large scale expeditions.
Hodgins’ journey began far from the vertical world she now calls home. Growing up in Ontario, she was introduced to the outdoors through family canoe trips, hikes, and ski outings. It wasn’t until university that she discovered climbing, a sport that would become her lifelong passion. “I love the feeling of pushing myself both physically and mentally with hundreds of metres of space beneath my feet!” Hodgins enthuses.
Her accomplishments in the climbing world are nothing short of extraordinary. Hodgins has tackled sport routes up to grade 32 (5.14a) and trad routes up to grade 30 (5.13d). However, it’s her big wall achievements that have truly set her apart. In 2018, she became the first Canadian woman to free climb El Capitan via the Freerider route (28 or 13a), a feat that took her four years and multiple attempts to accomplish. Not content to rest on her laurels, she went on to become only the third woman in the world to free climb Golden Gate on El Cap.
Hodgins’ adventures extend far beyond the well-trodden paths of Yosemite. She has led remote expeditions to Baffin Island, where she and a small team climbed iconic faces like Mount Asgard and Mount Thor, accessing these remote peaks by packraft. In 2022, she embarked on an epic journey to Greenland, sea kayaking 400km along the Arctic coastline to establish new routes on previously unclimbed sea cliffs. The film “Ocean to Asgard” documented this adventure travelled the globe as part of the Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour.
Despite her impressive resume, Hodgins remains grounded and focused on sharing her passion with others. “Few things get me more excited than opening the window for others to the world of outdoor adventure, and teaching the skills they need to explore it for themselves!” she explains. This enthusiasm for teaching led her to become an ACMG-certified Rock Guide, allowing her to guide and instruct in the Squamish area.
However, Hodgins’ journey hasn’t been without its challenges and sobering moments. During an expedition to El Gavilán in Mexico, she experienced a harrowing encounter that underscored the importance of caution and preparedness in remote areas. “We got a flat tire… At 2am we were abruptly awoken by about 20 men in black facemasks, shouting in Spanish and walking toward us with bright lights and machine guns slung over their shoulders,” she recounts. “In all the rock climbing I’ve done, I’ve never been so scared in my life.” The men turned out to be federal police responding to a nearby incident, but the experience left a lasting impression on Hodgins.
Looking to the future, Hodgins continues to set ambitious goals for herself. While she’s taking a step back from major expeditions to focus on strength training, her ultimate aim is to tackle even harder routes on remote cliffs. Additionally, she’s working on organising the Treeline Community Festival in her hometown, with the goal of making climbing more accessible to underrepresented groups in outdoor adventure sports.
Bronwyn Hodgins embodies the spirit of adventure and perseverance that defines the best of rock climbing. From the sheer faces of El Capitan to the unexplored cliffs of Greenland, she continues to push the boundaries of what’s possible in the vertical world, all while inspiring and educating the next generation of climbers.
The film about Bronwyns El Gavilán expedition in Mexico features in the 2024 Radical Reels Tour of Australia. Get your tickets HERE
Follow Bronwyn Hodgins on instagram HERE